Thierry Mugler

Nicola Formichetti's debut collection - Thierry Mugler AW11/12 - was well received by fashion audiences and was a viral success as photos of Rick Genest spread quicker than Miley Cyrus' nudes across the web. But has Formichetti become blinded by the 'freaks' in fashion? Has the 'Human Zombie' eclipsed the media attention and taken the limelight away from the clothes?

 Formichetti, fashion director of Vogue Hommes Japan and Uniqlo is no stranger to the extreme characters in fashion. As the stylist for Lady Gaga, responsible for orchestrating some of the biggest headline outfits of 2010 he understand the power of the fashion icon to thrust designers into the spotlight. The publicity forLady Gaga raised many designers profiles, none more than Formichetti for his role as the creative director of Haus of Gaga. His consistent attention to detail gained the attention of many fashion moguls. But has Mugler rode the freak train a little too hard? With rumours of Lady Gaga collaborating in the womenswear collection, has Mugler begun to sacrifice creative control for media attention?

While Rick Genest (Human Zombie) has become an overnight sensation, the media focused more upon this tattooed individual neglecting the fashion he was brought in to advertise. Mugler's first collection for Thierry Mugler seeking to revive the brand has gained media attention but for the wrong reasons. While the mere mention of a Gaga single debut at the runway show had journalists at the edge of the seats, there was no need to go overboard. Mainstream media attention was distracted from the clothes by Genest, and Formichetti would be wise to place his trust in his create merits in the future. Lets the clothes speak for themselves and leave fashion toys like Zombie Boy in the box.

Spring Gleen

2011 the year of austerity, public strikes and corporate hate provides the perfect setting for a revival of boho chic. While i won't be moving into a squat, chaining myself to protected woodlands and becoming an ambassador for free trade it seems time to abandon the monochrome wardrobe and embrace all that i hate kitsch symbolistic jewelry,  florals, tie-dye and collarless shirts. Paul Smith's SS11 collection offers the irony of boho chic with capitalist prosperity pricetags, the light and airy styles may just get me through the summer of poverty. I'm ready to embrace black boater hats, collarless tie-dye shirts and oxblood red shoes with the purple orange and white short shorts a  total dream purchase. I'm ready to start living  the utopian dream - the 9-9 corporate job, extortionate rent for a flat that acts more as a storage space and a non existant social life; role on graduation.

Men in Sheer

'Sheer Taste'

Only a man with a fine covering of body hair should ever attempt sheer. A darker skin tone is also a definitely bonus. So who better to show the true beauty of this look than a Spaniard.

Lea T.

Why would a beautiful 28 year old model, whippet thin with an undoubtedly striking face lead to a media controversy when included in an ad campaign for Givenchy 2010?
Its nothing to do with her looks. Nor her upbringing as the child of a Brazilian football star, with all the privilege and wealth that brings. Nor is it to do with her nationality, in a photo that is racially diverse.

Lea's slender figure, long brown locks and enviable feminine beauty are not important, when it becomes time to acknowledge that despite having breasts she does not have a vagina. Born Leandro, he has gradually become she, and privilege was lost to an outcast status. Reborn as Lea and now thrust into the limelight, she has been herald as the shining beacon of hope for Transgender people.

The bare fabric of this story is that a fashion company has cast a transgender model in an ad campaign. This could easily have been predicted. Trans sexuality is still taboo, raw, ‘dirty’ and unexplored. It can be exploited to maximum publicity and is a PR dream. Homosexuality has become boring in fashion, too mainstream; it no longer holds shock value in an industry where gay men and women are represented in all tiers of the hierarchy.

Givenchy’s decision to exploit Lea to gain press attention is not ‘exploitation’ in the style of Primark factories alongside refugee camps and child employment. The exploitation of Lea as a transgender individual brings the subject to the media’s attention. Issues facing transsexuals and their suffering can be explored by journalists and thrust into the view of the public through mainstream publications.

The best example of such is Carine Roitfeld’s decision to include a nude photo of Lea in French Vogue. The picture shows both her womanly female bosoms and a glimpse of her male genitalia. The question now stands how many transexuals will we see in next season's runway?

Dear Tom Ford.

Dear Tom Ford.

I must start with congratulations; you are a true design genius. Your fragrances fill the air with the smell of perfection and your clothes can induce a squeal of excitement from any dapper chap or female fashionista. Customers around the globe are happily tapping in their 4 digit pins and leaving stores clutching their latest Tom Ford purchases.

This makes the next statement the hardest to say. You’ve made a wrong move. You’ve made a fashion faux pas. A dweebish young gentleman is now the star of your fashion campaign. Why oh why did you replace Jon Kortarjarena with Nicholas Hoult? Have you seen what you’ve done? Jon’s running around the streets of Paris with substandard models to advertise NEXT. Whip out your blackberry and give him a call he needs you in this hour of need.

Nicholas Hoult is the antithesis of cool. I can only assume you haven’t seen About a Boy. He still remains that socially outcast baby-faced dickhead desperate to be noticed despite a role in skins and your film debut A Single Man. I wonder how many others share the same nightmare vision I have when I see him in your Campaigns. I envisage him arriving at the shoot headphones on and shades down bopping his head and singing “shake that ass, watch yourself, shake that ass, show me what you’re working with” horrifying Carolyn Murphy as she glances round to see his face. Carolyn deserves better, a mature man not a pre-pubescent looking wimp. I know celebrities are a necessity in selling your brand but why not pick again from the cast of A Single Man. Matthew Goode is so dashing and handsome and he possesses true British style that should not go unnoticed.

I do hope you now see Nicholas Hoult for what he is, a creepy young man. Drop him pronto. For once again i can look at your adverts in pleasure, not tear them out and bin them for good measure.

Kindest of Regards,
P.W.S.

Acne in London

Fashion bloggers and journalists alike have all dedicated e-inches of text to the new Acne store opening. The quality of journalism obviously varied. The Sun's 'fashion reporter' demonstrated her knowledge and relevance quite clearly with the comment 'I'm told it's not a gift emporium for spotty teenagers, but an upmarket store.'

The upmarket store is a 4 storey emporium occupying a former art gallery in the chic yet alternative Dover Street. Acne, the swedish brand famed for its simplistic design and understated branding has ensured every inch of this latest venture epitomises their brand image,

Harsh concrete, simple white walls and Danish pine floors set a studio-esque mood for the space. A number of artworks are on display complementing the former use. The selected works from the likes of Jean Cocteau, Jeremiah Goodman and Katerina Jebb along with a particularly large Helmut Lang sculpture.

The brand has invested heavily in every detail to ensure their second venture into London is sucessful. they dare not risk replicating their youthful incompetent attempts in the 90s that saw them dropped from the rails of Selfridges and others.
Acne lovers hot with anticipation will not be disappointed.

Justin Smith - Modern Miliner

Justin Smith is the milinery world's latest rising star, and with the couture obsession with hats, his relevance is at a high. Milinery Aficionados are already well aware of his extraordinary skills, and his abilities have gained the attention of many within the fashion world.

Pinning down his inspirations have dumb-founded many journalists, recieving the most ambigious of responses. He offers spontaneity and the past as his answers. A single pin point idea or image has however formed the crux for each of his collections. These reference points are multitude in nature, and offer a beautiful mix of ideas. From 1920s/30s ballroom to tribal to safarai, vintage, and gothic imagery, his main obsession centres around the head.

Many of his creations tinker upon the edge of sculpture and hats, continuing the fight to defy the boundary between art and fashion. The mix of art and music, is one that Justin has not fully commited to. It is undeniable that certain pieces crafted by his hands would be desirable to many of the musician come entertainers which dominate the itunes download charts . Audrey Hepburn is however the celebrity, death defying, who he most wishes to adorn with one of his masterpieces.

All of his hats are bespoke, and he offers the usual spiel on the essence of originality and the human touch as justification for this. As much as this speech may be overplayed, it is hard to deny the truth in such a statement. With his growing success, season by season, the future may just offer him the opportunity to be compared on an equal footing to Philip Treacy and others as one the greatest modern miliners.

The Nu Goth Jewelry.

The angst anarchism of the goth, has had a small scale resurgence with celebrities and models alike. Alice Dellal, is the perfect embodiment of this style with an image of rebellious teen angst. Carried off without a heavy application of black eyeliner and a Dashboard Confessional CD. The more depressing side of this trend, was the sight of Lindsay Lohan sporting a Metallica tshirt. She should stick to pussy licking.

This trend has been toned down for the highstreet but many indicators of its legacy stand. The reintroduction of leather clothing, stud work, distressed denim, the return of the denim jacket and Dr Martens and the more alternative shredded tshirt, creepers and vintage band tshirts.

Jewerly designers have also got on to this trend, with the tacky plastic works of Alex & Chloe, to the more upmarket side of things. Pamela Love, NYC, is one such designer, whos inspirations rests in the anatomy of humans and animals. Pamela is the Damien Hirst of the jewelry world, without the grotesque ego.

Necks are now adorned with crows feet, miniature ravens skulls, and sharks teeth. These trophies of pain, perfectly reflect the after feelings of a night of vodka and narcotics abuse.

I definitely need to get a miniaturised metal ravens skull, however the confines of student living, mean i'm opting for the etsy knock-off. Etsy Link

Death Perception

The acknowledge of death remains a western taboo; which grows as we distance ourself further from death in daily life.

Death has been acknowledged in literature for many centuries, and also within the world of Art. Frans Snyder, a popular flemish artist held a taste for paiting dramatic scenes of dead animals. The 'Fish Market' is a fitting example of such work.

Damien Hirst is a modern suitor of death. His phemaldehyde animals offer a real assault on the conciousness of death in the minds of his audience. This death obsession is the focus for many contemporary works. Death is a central theme to many modern works including those of Fumie Sasabuchi.

The above image by Sasabuchi attempts to induce a chilling atmosphere of anatomical disfigurement in a partially lifelike human figure.Skeletal forms are superimposed on the bodies of models, countering the beauty underneath.
Hazy skeletal forms feature in many of her other pieces, aiming to alter the viewers perception of perfection in fashion magazines.

The Adoption of High Society Attire by Youth Culture

This musical find is definitely worth a listen. It holds a haunting tone with associated quivering and lofty vocals; Wild Beasts - Two Dancers (ii).

The picture above definitely represents the essense of the article i wrote that was published in the Manchester Student paper this week;

The majority of fashion related journalism will state the exponential growth of street style as the latest and most important source for designer inspiration. We ought to consider where these youngsters look for inspiration. I put it to you that the conservative dress of the upper crust is the new inspiration behind many youth trends this past decade.

The first to adopt aspects of the style has been the ‘chav’ generation. Tucked in socks and popped up collars were practical for the country walks of the gentry but are now common looks within the inner-city. This link however could be pure coincidence or a reversal of an age-old fashion tradition.

Consider the wave of Burberry check which has flooded the fashion high street. Formerly a symbol of the Eton elite it quickly became the symbol for the aspiring ‘WAG’. However, all high fashion labels rely on the importance of exclusivity. This prompted the appointment of Christopher Bailey to rapidly quash this association.

Those looking to avoid the mainstream have turned to the county-club class for their latest trends. You will find them occupying Wednesday nights ‘Now Wave’ at Deaf Institute or the weekend crowd of Red Rum (Fallowfield’s place to be seen.). It is a Barbour wax jacket or a pair of Russell & Bromley brogues that gain you respect on this scene.

Vintage is also big with this crowd, a Ralph Lauren Sweater or Lacoste Polo shirt is THE hot find. These brands commonly linked to a public school girl’s post-riding attire are rapidly featuring in the wardrobes of the non-mainstream youth.

Why this social phenomenon has quite developed is unknown? It could be a consequence of our rapid regeneration society. With little originality in fashion, everyone is looking elsewhere for inspiration. The current look of the high street is a fusion of the previous 50 years of fashion. With the latest staple of the denim jacket and a marked return of the Doc Martin boot.

With so many years of fashion to regenerate, and the nature of ‘disposable fashion’, trends are short lived and require constant new influences. Celebrities are often a major source of trends. With Alexa Chung sporting a Barbour jacket sparking a chain reaction of youngsters buying one.

Celebrities may be the source of this adoption; however I feel the roots to this trend lie in the constant seeking for something new by youth culture. I hope to see this trend continue to thrive, and quite what will be the next upper class trend to be taken is unknown.

Recycle Season

I love this Dazed & Confused article for styling up recycling. My feelings for this editorial have nothing to do with the undeniable attractive quality of Alex Dunstan. I have however never found squinting eyes so alluring.

Terry World - Terry Richardson

Terry Richardson, an infamous leader in the fashion photography world. His disgusting and vulgar nature provides the appeal to his work. Selections of his works are so perverse, they would not be legally sold as pornography. Despite this reputation which generates much public disgust he is grossly in demand. Top magazines are clamouring to feature his work whilst celebrities fight to be the latest feature.

His celebrity models have stretched the entire cultural spectrum from the usually risqué Macauley Culkin and Jackass cast to respected figures such as Barack Obama. the level of perversion alters dependent on the clientele allowing him to work with such a wide cast.










I recently purchased his book Terryworld which includes many of his most profane works. Some of the images were described as disgusting by members of my house; however I failed to see the book as shocking. Instead i found it rather amusing, particularly the photo below.


This publication to me marks a change in society. Where such levels of crude imagery become normalised. A variety of online and offline stockists have sold this book to much success; quantifying our taste for such images. His works stretches the limits of 'art' to the extreme without using this as the selling point.

A talented photographer and truly modern individual he represents the forefront of western culture today.

For more Pictures see theBlog;Main Website

The Hedi Slimane Diary

A small selection from the wonderful blog of Hedi Slimane, demonstrating that his sharp eye for detail and beauty can be transferred from the Dior Homme runway to the camera lens.


More Avaialable at The Hedi Slimane Diary.

Gaultier Madame Perfume Agyness Deyn.

Agyness Deyn who shot to ''supermodel'' status last year and seemed to be walking down just about every major labels runway stars in the new advert for the new fragance by JPG.
Agyness no doubt fills many other models with envy, thanks to her role as the face of Burberry 2007 and her uncomparable number of magazine pages, even having an issue of i-D magazine in her honour. Agyness also won Model of the year at the British Fashion Awards in 2007 and was also the face of Burberry thanks to Christopher Bailey.

In 2008 she has continued her success moving into music singing in the track 'who' with the Five O'Clock Heroes and continuing her modelling career. Known for her querky personal style and Lancastrian Roots she is completely down to earth with a real talent for modelling from major labels to that of emerging designers such as Gareth Pugh. The Above Advert for JPG is just an example of her brilliance, she is so full of life and at 24 defies the usual lifespan of most models.

- P.S.

Viktor & Rolf Exhibition - Barbican London

The Viktor and Rolf Exhibition at the Barbican was fantastic, I knew little about Viktor & Rolf only that my mother said they created some rather odd clothes and had concepts for their shows.

The concepts were all very different from the 'Russian Doll' Haute Couture Collection of Fall / Winter 1999/2000 Collection which involved a model walking along the catwalk and as she walked on another dress would be layered on top of the one she was wearing building her up giving an effect similar to that of a Russian Doll.



The Atomic Bomb collection was another interesting show, first the models wore the dresses with inflated pockets in them and then again normally. It symbolised a lot and they gave many reasons for it but i just thought it looked interesting.



The Upside Down collection was truely great the models wore the dresses one way up and the following model wore it 'upside down' with models walking in the arms of the dress there movements seeemed very restricted. It was weird how some of the dresses looked just as good upside down.

- P.S.

Burberry Adverts - Mario Testino

I have developed such an intense affection for Mario Testino's work, his skills as a photographer are above par and create moods for the photographs. This has shone through again in these photographs. Christopher Bailey's genius is shown in these images as he leads Burberry up and up into this constant reinvention styling which shows such drastic changes each season so each collection can stand on its own.